When you own and keep a horse the possibility of injuries ranges from a small scratch on the skin to lameness. Having a well stocked first aid kit in your yard enables you to treat injuries immediately which can prevent a small wound from becoming infected and resulting into a festering wound requiring veterinarian treatment.

Your first aid kit needs to be kept in a location that is easily accessed. All supplies should be well labeled and it is important to ensure that none of the items have expired. Your local veterinarian can be a wonderful source of information as to what products and items your first aid kit should contain.

Your veterinarian will also be able to supply you with products that are not sold over the counter, but that are essential for horse care. Some wounds and illness are best treated solely by your veterinarian; this is often dictated by law, by the severity and technical knowledge. Other times your veterinarian may initially treat your horse and have show you the follow up care that is needed for you to carry out yourself.

Mild superficial wounds are easily treated at home as long as you keep the wound clean and treated on a regular basis. If you have any doubt, always consult a veterinarian or a professional horse caretaker who can effectively advise you as to the next course of action.

Horse’s health is maintained by having at least one veterinarian exam once a year. This can be coordinated with routine vaccinations your horse has, to prevent illness such as equine influenza.

Dental work in horses is often overlooked and it should not be since his mouth is centre of communication. The bit is placed in the mouth and works in a way to signal to the horse our intentions. When the horse has discomfort in his mouth due to his teeth, this often shows up in what we identify as misbehavior.

We could be riding our horse and wondering with some frustration as to why he is tossing up his head on a regular basis. The most common cause is in the mouth, a small tooth erupts called a wolf tooth and when the bit comes into contact with it, it causes pain. A qualified horse dentist or your veterinarian will examine the mouth for signs of the wolf tooth and extract it.

More simply your horse’s health is affected by how he eats his food, if his teeth are interfering with how he ingests the food, he could lose weight and lack energy. A rasping once a year of the teeth will keep this in check.

Lastly but not least your horse needs to be wormed on a regular basis to ensure his health. There is no way to eliminate worms from the equine world, but there are several wormers on the market that can be administered to reduce the worm population and keep them out of your horse.

A good horse owner will have a basic first aid kit and be able to treat his horse, or call for professional help in his time of need.

When you own a horse you become responsible for its health. Horses can become affected by many health problems such as colic, thrush and internal parasites. A number of conditions can be prevented and treated by an owner, but every horse owner should have the aid of a local equine veterinarian.

Before purchasing your horse, you should have a veterinarian give it an inspection to make sure that he is in good health. Thereafter it is advisable to have your veterinarian give your horse an annual checkup.

I was interested in purchasing a school master for show jumping from the stable where I kept my horse. I really did not have an in-depth knowledge of horses, but I knew enough to request a veterinary inspection. I did not know any vets, so I did not mind when the owner suggested using their local veterinarian.

We had gone over the horse and all seemed to be going well until we had him running loose in a lunge ring. I overheard the veterinarian inquire as to whether I was planning on doing much with the horse. I have no idea what he meant exactly, but I did know I was planning on show jumping. Ultimately I assumed that the horse had some health problems and would not be a long term investment.

The owners did not divulge any of the veterinarian’s words, but I was saved from making a costly unsound investment. When you buy a horse you usually part with a substantial amount of money and it makes complete sense to ensure the health of your investment.

Horses require regular upkeep, they need to be dewormed and vaccinated regularly to prevent health problems and to maintain good health. When you do not deworm your horse, he becomes infested with parasites which can infect other horses he is around and it affects his own health.

You may not see the internal damage worms create, but with large infestations you will see the difference on the outside when his coat is no longer glossy and he keeps losing weight no matter how much you feed him.

When you look after horses you can do other prevention techniques besides deworming, to increase chances of a good healthy environment for your horse.

- Remove droppings from paddocks and fields on a regular basis. If completely removing is not possible then disk or harrow the field to break up the droppings.

- Rotate your pastures, leave a field completely empty for a period of time

- Remove bot eggs from the horses with a bot knife

- Grazing with cattle can aid worm control

The usual vaccinations given to a horse are for equine influenza, tetanus and equine encephalitis. It is strongly recommended that you have all your horses vaccinated; your local veterinarian will be able to assist you and determine which vaccines your horse needs and when he should be given them.

Having a horse is a huge responsibility and they are reliant on you for good health. Take pride in owning a horse and ensure he is well cared for. Have a basic first aid kit at hand and develop a relationship with your local veterinarian.

In the care and keeping of horses, it is necessary to have a variety of standard horse supplies at the ready in order to responsibly fulfill our duties as horse owners or caregivers.

While fundamental needs such as quality food, adequate water, and comfortable shelter are obvious, there are additional supplies that are absolutely essential to the health and functionality of the horse in question and they are classified by the physical care for the horse and utilization of the horse’s abilities.

Included in physical care are those horse supplies that feature the materials used for grooming the animal. Frequent horse grooming is imperative for the comfort and appearance of the horse.

The supplies most often used in grooming include a curry comb – used to loosen dirt in the horse’s coat, a dandy brush which removes the dirt, a body brush which grooms the coat, a mane comb which does the same for the horse’s mane, a hoof pick/brush which cleans the hoofs, and a polishing towel used to give the horse a healthy sheen at the end of brushing.

As important as grooming in the physical care for a horse is medical care. Just as we keep a first aid kit in our homes should anyone require assistance, we must also keep a horse first aid kit as a part of your standard horse supplies.

Of course, in the event of illness or injury it is imperative that a veterinarian be called immediately; but in the meantime, a first aid kit can help you keep your horse comfortable – and out of immediate danger – until the doctor can arrive. Such items that should be included in first aid kit for horses include:

*antiseptics

*wound dressings

*bandages

*splints

*tweezers

*thermometer

There are, of course, those horse supplies that are associated with the utilization of the horse. For example, in order to ride your horse, you must have a variety of horse supplies on hand for riding.

The equipment used in this case is referred to as tack and includes:

Saddles – The “seat” in which the rider sits.

Stirrups – Which act as a support for the rider’s feet.

Bridles and Halters – Which slip over the horse’s head and are used to control the movement of the horse.

Reins – The ropes that run from the bit to the rider’s hands.

Bit – Which fits in the mouth of the horse.

Ultimately, there is a variety of equipment that is used for different styles of riding, racing, or showing a horse. The type of supplies used differs in each particular situation.

Owning a horse requires a significant amount of responsibility. As owners, we are committed to the physical and emotional care for the animals that have been entrusted to us.

Proper medical attention, healthy nutrition and hydration, frequent and loving grooming, and a dedication to having proper horse supplies on hand at all times are all a part of taking comprehensive care of our horses.

If a dog has been injured and needs to be moved to assure its and your safety you will need to follow a few pointers to safely remove it from danger. You will need to first assess the injured dog’s injuries to determine how to keep from causing further damage.

A lot of severe injuries occur by dogs getting hit by vehicles. You will need to try to take the dog away from traffic or if it is walking or running, you might need to try to slow or stop traffic to keep the dog from becoming reinjured by a vehicle. Also, keep in mind an injured animal may bite so take precautions to prevent injury to yourself or others. A towel loosely wrapped around the muzzle, or even a shoestring will help keep the mouth closed.

Spinal and Head Trauma

A dog with a possible spinal injury or head trauma will exhibit the following signs: unconsciousness, different sized pupils, shock, blood in the ear, nose, mouth, or anus, and/or paralysis. If you suspect these types of injuries you will need to find an object with a solid, flat surface (such as plywood, a sled, or a stiff piece of cardboard) that is large enough that the entire animal can comfortably fit.

Gently ease the dog onto the top surface, making sure he is lying on his side. Try not to twist the dog’s body or neck as you move him. If you are unable to find a solid surface you can use a towel or blanket. Gently ease the dog onto the material. In both cases, try to secure help to transport the animal onto the surface and into your vehicle.

Pelvic and Leg Injuries

An injured dog with a pelvic fracture or leg injury may show the following signs: limping, swelling, or extreme pain. To safety transport the animal to the veterinarian’s office you will want to prevent further limb injury.

If the dog can stand, but doesn’t bear weight on the limb you can try to create a simple splint to prevent further swelling or dislocation of any broken bones in the leg. If the dog allows, you can gently wrap the leg in a large, folded towel to prevent bumping of the leg as the dog walks to your car. A towel can be placed under the stomach, and then you can hold the two ends above the back to make a sling to assist the dog in walking.

A dog with a fractured pelvis or one which is unable to stand should be transported as with a spinal or head trauma. Be extremely careful when trying to ease your dog onto your transport device as he may be extremely painful and try to bite or escape due to pain.

Safety on the Ride to the Veterinarian

Your dog will need to be restrained in your vehicle once you are able to get him inside. Large dogs should have someone sit near them, to protect them from any sudden turns and to keep them still. Small dogs should be placed in a kennel which is securely fastened in your vehicle. Keeping the animal still at all times is paramount to prevent any further injury, and to keep both you and the dog safe.

There will be times when you can’t get your cat to the veterinarian right away, or her condition might warrant emergency first aid treatment before the trip. Be prepared, with your Feline First Aid Kit.

1. Assemble the following supplies in a box with a secure lid. Keep the box near your cat food supplies in case you need to find it in a hurry.

2. Tweezers, preferably very sharp pointed.

3. Rectal thermometer. The digital variety is preferable because it is more readily read.

4. Small scissors, preferably with blunt ends. (For cutting hair, bandages, tape.)

5. Sterile gauze pads, rolled sterile gauze, white surgical tape.

6. Cotton balls and a roll of cotton padding.

7. Hydrogen Peroxide for cleaning out wounds.

8. Sterile eyewash solution (The human variety is fine.)

9. Antiseptic cleaner, such as Bactine.

10. Hydrocortisone ointment for insect stings.

11. Eye droppers. You can buy these separately at your pharmacy.

12. Emergency ice pack. (Keep this item in your freezer, and wrap in a towel before using.)

13. The telephone number of your veterinarian, including night and emergency numbers. Keep this information in a waterproof packet, along with your pet’s medical records.

Tips:

Rotate your supplies so the medications will be fresh, and replenish supplies after use. Package spillables in plastic zip-lock bags in case you have to evacuate during a disaster. Do not use your First Aid Kit in lieu of seeing a veterinarian, in case of serious injuries or illness, but for those times when you simply can’t reach a veterinarian, and a cat’s life is at stake.